Abstract
In this study, we first examined the morphology of a sunscreen product deposited on PMMA sheets with increasing developed interfacial area ratio (sdr) to better understand the origin and impact of film heterogeneities on in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) measurements. This was achieved using a simple yet innovative UV photography setup combined with wetting measurements. By revisiting the fundamentals of absorption spectroscopy, we generalized and extended Beer-Lambert's law to non-uniform samples, modeling thickness distributions with a Gamma law. This enabled us to develop an analytical relationship between absorbance, thickness, and the homogeneity of spread sunscreen films using the concept of linear attenuation coefficients. This model, which differentiates between spreading quality and absorption potential, was experimentally validated on three different sunscreens coated on smooth PMMA plates. It also helps explain the low correlation often observed between in vivo and in vitro tests, especially for high SPF values. We believe this approach will pave the way for more reproducible and consistent in vitro SPF measurements, leading to the development of more effective sunscreen products.
Supplementary materials
Title
Supplementary information
Description
How In vivo SPf measurements were performed. Formulation and rheological behaviour of C, L and P sunscreen products. Equivalence between Labsphere® UV-2000S and PerkinElmer® Lambda 950 spectrophotometers. Partial derivatives of the generalized absorbance (A).
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